Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat, the world’s ninth-highest mountain and Pakistan’s second-highest after K2, stands majestically in the Diamir district of Gilgit-Baltistan. Known as the "Killer Mountain," it anchors the western edge of the Himalayas, separated from the Karakoram Range by the mighty Indus River. This towering peak rises dramatically from the Indus Valley, offering breathtaking views of its vast ice-clad faces and rugged ridges.
At Chogori Expeditions, we organize a 50-day Nanga Parbat Expedition, providing full-board services up to the base camp. The expedition duration can be tailored to match climbers' experience and fitness levels. For international climbers, Pakistan visa arrangements must be made beforehand, supported by documentation provided by our team. To ensure smooth participation in the peak climbing season from June to August, we require confirmation by the end of March.
The journey begins in Islamabad, where our team will welcome you at the airport and transfer you to a hotel for rest and a detailed expedition briefing. The next day, you’ll travel to Chilas via the legendary Karakoram Highway. From Chilas, a scenic drive and a short trek through lush forests and steep gorges lead to your first view of Nanga Parbat. Its colossal south face, rising 16,000 feet from base to summit, dominates the horizon with its icy cliffs and soaring ridges—a spectacle that leaves visitors awestruck.
Climbing Nanga Parbat has always been a challenge. Since A.F. Mummery’s ill-fated British expedition in 1895, mountaineers have sought to conquer this peak, which comprises a 20-kilometer series of ridges culminating at 8,125 meters. Its South Face, the Rupal Face, towers 5,000 meters, while the Raikot Face to the north plunges over 7,000 meters into one of the world’s deepest gorges. The summit was first reached in 1953 by Hermann Buhl, who completed a solo climb without oxygen—a feat still celebrated in mountaineering history.
The south face, climbed only five times to date, was famously scaled by Reinhold Messner and his brother Günther in 1970. They ascended via the Rupal Face and descended through the Diamir Face, which today serves as the most popular and safer route for climbers. The Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face is now considered the standard route to the summit.
Nanga Parbat is unique among 8,000-meter peaks due to its isolation, which requires climbers to start their ascent from lower altitudes. It is one of the few mountains in the world to be climbed in all four seasons, from scorching summer heat at its base to freezing temperatures of -40°C at the summit. In February 2016, the mountain saw its first winter ascent by a team including Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon, and Simone Moro. A second winter climb was achieved in January 2018 by Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol.
This awe-inspiring mountain offers one of the most rewarding but challenging experiences for climbers, combining natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether scaling the towering faces or trekking through its lush surroundings, Nanga Parbat remains an unforgettable journey for those bold enough to take it on.